Use the "Procedure for Cards" described below to create a set of
replacement cards, and the "Procedure for Tiles" if you are creating
replacement tiles, player mats, or any other items that requires a
cardboard backing or core layer.  

* If you'd like to modify these files before printing, the /src
directory may contain what you're looking for (See
src/SOURCES_README.TXT).  Otherwise, just use the pre-generated PDFs.  

* If you'd like to try designing your own player aids, the
DESIGN_HOWTO.TXT file provides information about some of the tools and
techniques I use.


RECOMMENDED PROCEDURE

Equipment & Supplies:

- Inkjet Printer (Epson Stylus C62 is cheap and works great!)
- 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive
- 24 lb. Inkjet Paper (letter size)
- Cardboard (if you are creating tiles rather than cards)
- Paper Cutter (Fiskars 12" Paper Trimmer)
- 3/16" - 1/4" Corner Rounding Punch (Paper Shapers PSPCR01C, Carl CP-6A, etc.)
- Utility Cutting Knife (OLFA-L; tiles only)
- Laminator (optional)
- Desk Stapler
- Scotch tape
- Scissors


Procedure for Cards (for Tiles, see below):

1. Using a colour inkjet printer, print each .pdf file single-sided on
good quality, 24 lb. inkjet paper stock (8-1/2 x 11" letter size).  To
print on A4 paper, you may need to make changes to the source files and
regenerate the .pdfs before printing.  See the /src directory for more
information.  Graphics used in the PDFs were designed to print optimally
at 720 dpi, so you may want to adjust your printer driver to use this
resolution if it is available (720 dpi, highest quality setting to
prevent banding).

2. Place matching sheets back-to-back, then precisely align the black
border markings on the sheets.  Backlighting the pages with a desk lamp
will help with this.  Once the pages are aligned, use 1 or 2 staples
along one edge of the sheet to temporarily fix the alignment during the
next step.

3. Use the paper cutter to trim the edges of the sheets so that there is
no mismatch.  This is done so there will be no exposed spray adhesive
when the backs are glued together in the step 4.  Once the pages are
trimmed, tape them together along one edge, then remove the staples.  If
you've done this correctly, each pair of sheets can now be opened like
the covers of a book, with the scotch tape forming the "spine" that
holds the sheets in alignment.

4. To ensure a strong and symmetric bond, 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive (or
similar) is used as a contact cement to bind the sheets together.  Lay
each pair of sheets open with the blank backsides exposed, then apply a
light, even coat of spray adhesive to *both sheets*, and wait a few
minutes.

5. While the adhesive is still tacky, bond the backs of each pair of
sheets together and apply uniform pressure to the entire surface using a
rolling pin, etc.  Place the sheets under a heavy book so they will dry
perfectly flat.

5. Once completely dry (12+ hours), have the sheets laminated
(double-sided) using the thinnest available plastic laminate.  This work
can usually be done professionally for less than $1 per letter-size
sheet at custom printing/framing shops (see "Laminations - Plastic,
Paper Etc." in the Yellow Pages to locate suppliers).

6. Use a paper cutter (Fiskars 12" Paper Trimmer works well) to cut out
the laminated cards.  When cutting the cards, you should use the dotted
guide lines that are printed on the *backs* of the cards, rather than
the front.  This ensures that the card backs will have uniform borders,
and any misalignment problems that show up in the finished cards
(hopefully none!) will not be visible to the other players.  For my
recent work, I've tried to avoid printing guide lines on the card faces
to make this obvious.

7. Use a 1/4" corner rounding punch (Marvy CR-S or similar) to finish
each card.  This tool can be found for $10-15 at hobby/craft shops that
carry scrapbooking supplies (see "Scrapbooking" in the Yellow Pages to
locate suppliers).

WARNING:

You may be tempted to save time and effort by just printing the .pdfs
double-sided on heavy paper or cardstock, rather than follow this
procedure.  While this method will sometimes work, you will probably be
disappointed with the results.  For card printing, a very precise
alignment of the front and back images is needed, and unfortunately most
low-cost inkjet printers do not feed paper with sufficient accuracy for
this to work reliably.


Procedure for Tiles:

Professional looking tiles can be created using a procedure very similar
to that described above for Cards.  In addition to the materials needed
for cards, you will also require:

1) Cardboard of the appropriate size and thickness.  The cardboard
that's used as a backing material for letter-size notepaper pads is
ideal for this type of work.  Shirt boxes are also often constructed
from cardboard of an appropriate weight for making tiles.

2) A sharp utility knife (OLFA-L snap-blade type is ideal) and (steel)
ruler to cut out the finished tiles.  Most paper cutters will do a poor
job of cutting tiles, and are not recommended.

Tiles generally have square corners, so you will not need a corner
rounding punch (it probably wouldn't work anyway!).

To create tiles, follow the procedure described above for cards, except:

1. You will need to bond each printed sheet of paper to the cardboard
backing in separate steps.  Once the front sheet has been glued to the
cardboard and dried, align the back sheet on the other side of the
cardboard and glue it as well. 

2. Since you cannot see through the cardboard to align the border
markings on the sheets, you should begin by aligning and trimming the
printed sheets as if you were making cards.  Then, before you bond the
first sheet of paper to the cardboard, align it along the two
intersecting edges of one (square) corner of the cardboard.  Tape it in
place, and apply spray adhesive (as for cards).  Aligning the second
sheet on the opposite side in the same corner should result in a
matching alignment of the finished tiles.

Another procedure that also works well is to first bond one untrimmed
sheet to the cardboard, and then drive pushpins (thumbtacks) through the
cardboard at the four boundary-line corners.  Trim the second printed
sheet along its boundary lines, and then use the holes in the cardboard
to align it on the opposite side.  Tape this sheet in place and glue
together as described above (thanks to Mikael Sheikh from BGG for this
suggestion).

3. Laminate the tiles in sheet form, just as you would with cards, but
use the utility knife and a ruler to cut out the finished cards rather
than the paper cutter/corner punch.

NOTE that some player aids (summary charts in particular) will not
include a printed design for the back side, since the originals often
use a solid colour or some boring pattern that's not worth printing. 
For these components, coloured posterboard makes an ideal backing
material (although it's a bit thinner than regular cardboard).  Large
sheets of this stuff in a wide variety of colours are available at any
office supply or craft shop.  Similarly, coloured construction paper
works great as a backing material for *cards* that have a single-sided
design.  Just bond, laminate and cut the cards as described above
(fortunately you won't need to worry about misalignment).


Good Luck!

Questions or comments?  Write to npetry@accesscomm.ca

-- NLP/08JN04

